segunda-feira, 16 de fevereiro de 2015

ISTANBUL: O QUE FAZER EM 05 DIAS/ WHAT TO DO IN 05 DAYS



Find/download the city's map with the most important attractions so you can mark everything I'm typing here and have a plan in mind BEFORE traveling, so you don't waste  time. There is a lot to do in a short period of time, so do your homework in advance. Some of the attractions are not very far from each other – in fact it is possible to walk to most of them. You will also take the tram, which runs parallel Sultanahmet and takes u to other parts of the city.  Before you ride the public transportation, you should buy the card IN ADVANCE (you fill it up with as much money as you wish; there is probably a minimum). I remember each ride is about 2-3 TL; ask the hotel reception where you should get your transport card (usually in little markets or bookstands); there is also a machine close to the tram stations (jetonmatik). About 15 TL should be a good amount of money for you to start – but pay attention every time you pass the card so you are aware of your balance and refill it in time. The drivers do not take any money, only this electronic card.


I referred to this site before heading out for attractions, to  be sure of their opening/closing hours and fees. Some attractions close at least once a week, for cleaning. Beware of the museums/pieces that are under restoration so you don't get frustrated. RECHECK THE TICKETS PRICE, AS THEY CAN GO UP WITHOUT ANY PREVIOUS NOTICE - use the prices here merely as a suggestion/guide. 





Day 01: Airport - Taksim by shuttle



CHANGE SOME MONEY INTO TURKISH LIRA CURRENCY BEFORE LEAVING THE AIRPORT AS THE SHUTTLE AND TAXI DRIVERS DO NOT ACCEPT CREDIT CARDS OR FOREIGN MONEY. There are foreign exchange places throughout the more touristic neighborhoods like Sultanahemt and Taksim. Research the current exchange rate in advance so you are able to choose the best value for your money.

The cheapest means of transportation is the airport shuttle. You catch this shuttle right in front of the airport’s exit (you will see a sign written HAVATAŞ  - or simply ask anybody at the airport's information counter). The shuttle costs about 15 TL  (TL = Turkish Lira – the conversion   is around 1 TL = 0,50 US Dollar so 15 TL would be about 8 USD). You buy the ticket directly from the bus driver. It will take you to TAKSIM in about one hour - depending on the traffic, which is usually heavy in Istanbul. Taksim is  a center area in Istanbul. From Taksim you should take a taxi until your final destination. This area is crowded with hotels/tourists, so it should  not be a problem for you to find a cab. I suggest you have all the address information/phone number ready in a separate piece of paper so you can handle this piece of paper to the taxi driver, as many times they have limited English skills or can’t speak English at all. ASK THE PRICE in advance. ALWAYS. Research itinerary prices in advance so you can have an idea of how much it is an honest price to pay. ASK THE PRICE before entering the taxi and make sure the driver has the taximeter on. Another suggestion is at the time you make your hostel reservation, write them an email asking about hostel/airport transfers (some hostels provide this service for their guests).
BE AWARE OF SCAMS – do your homework and be familiar with the most common tricks.
Links: airport shuttle (pay attention at the schedule times and have in mind they take about 1 hour, 1 hour 30 minutes for the airport/Taksim trip – do not forget traffic is CHAOTIC so allow plenty of time for the ride, especially when you have a plane to catch. Better safe than sorry; that’s my motto.

Day 02:  Sultanahmet - Let the magic begin

1 – Sultanahmet Square: Obelisk of Theosodius, Walled Obelisk, German Fountain
2- Visit of the Blue Mosque (entrance is free). Do not go in short skirts, dresses or shorts. Women should cover their head with a scarf (if you don't have your own, you can borrow one for free at its entrance).
3- Visit Hagia Sofia (open from 9:00 – 17:00) Price: 30 TL
4-  Visit of the Basilic Cistern (open from 9:00- 16:00). Price: 20 TL Don’t miss the Medusa column.
4- Walk around Soğukçesme Street behind Hagia Sofia. You will find typical Ottoman construction; made of wood (before concret came over).
5-On the way to the Grand Bazaar you will pass in front of Sultan Mahmut Tomb – GO INSIDE (it is for free) so you can see the tombs. There is a cemetery besides the mausoleums that is totally worthy the visit.
6- Keep walking up the street and you will reach the Constantin Column (or Burned Column). Look for the Turkish Bath (hamam) called Çemberlitaş. This place is from 1584. Take a pamphlet so  you can know the services/prices they offer. Pamper yourself in a Turkish Bath – get the Turkish massage made by a professional; they say they basically skin you off your bones, and you feel totally renewed.
7- Finally make it to the Grand Bazaar,  where you will spend a good part of your afternoon. Pay attention at the ENTRANCE  gate you take, so you will know where you should leave when it is time to go back home (I am serious : You WILL get lost, because this market is huge and we get distracted with the shops from the moment we step in). Don’t worry, you will make your way out either way – so enjoy the ride!! Be ready to be attacked by the salespeople that will try to guess your nationality and will try to take every cent from your pockets. Get ready to negotiate, bargain. Have fun but don't go bankrupt. Buy me a pair of earrings,bracelet or necklace, as a thank you for putting all this time into preparing this wonderful and practical itinerary for you. Get yourself anything with the Turkish eye on it - the blue and white Turkish eye charm, tradicionally used everywhere for protection against the bad eye.

Day 03:  Sultan for a Day

1- Topkapı Palace + Harem (open from 9:00-16:45) Price: 45 TL including the Harem (you have to check the Harem’s visit hours, as it is always made in a group, with a guide – you can’t go in the harem by yourself).  Be ready to spend the whole morning in the Palace, because it is big and full of very interesting details.
2- Güllane Park – just in front of Topkapi Palace.  A place to relax;  this park was part of Topkapı Palace and it is one of the oldest Istanbul parks. At the end of the park you will find a charming café where you can snack/get refreshed with the view of  the Bosphorus.
3- Archaeological Museum (open from 9:00 – 18:00) Price: 15 TL
It is located really close to Topkapı Palace and you can enter it through Güllane Park. When I was there Alexander the Great sarcophagus was away for restauration, so I did not visit cause that was my favorite thing to see. Iam not sure if the work is done; check it in advance.
http://www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr/main_page
3- Eminonu/ New Mosque/ Üsküdar:
You can easily walk down to Eminonu or take the tram (I used to follow the tram’s tracks so I would never get lost). On the way down to Eminonu you will pass in front of the old train station – the same one that Agatha Christie describes in her story, “Murder on the Orient Express”. 
Eminonu is the ferry area – where you can take the boats to go across the Bosphorus from the European to the Asian side, back and forth. It is dominated by the New Mosque (Yeni Mosque). The entrance is free.  Go inside the mosque and if you are interested, wait for the next prayer service. It is the only mosque that allowed tourists to stay inside while Muslims were praying.
4- Just behind the New Mosque, you will find the Spice Bazaar. Go crazy at the smell of the piles of spices. It is much smaller than the Grand Bazaar. The nuts are wonderfully good. Try the LOKUM – the traditional Turkish candy, or Turkish Delight (beware of the prices!!!).
If you keep walking straight the bazaar, you will get to an open air area in the streets where you will find all kind of different shops – from clothes to jewelry to shoes to electronics to whatever items. It is a fantastic opportunity to see/interact with Turkish people, as they frequently shop there. Be aware of pickpockets and scams, always.  It is a HUGE street market, very live and noisy and much cheaper than the bazaar prices (not sure about the quality so use your common sense).
5- Look for Galata Bridge. It is blue, and underneath  it, there are many fish restaurants.
6- It is time to cross the Bosphorus, and make it to the Asian side. Take the boat just in front of the FISH MARKET. The price is the same of a bus ride (about 2 or 3 TL – so have your transportation card handy). Take the ferry to Üsküdar. Make sure you do it BEFORE sunset, because one of the highlights of this trip is that you watch the sunset from the Asian side. Prepare to have one of the most breathtaking views of your life.  The ferry takes about 20 minutes from Istanbul to Üsküdar. SIT OUTSIDE so you can take pictures and watch the view. You will get really close to the Maiden Tower – or Leandro’s Tower (in Turkish: Kız Kulesi). 

"The name comes from a legend: the Byzantine emperor heard a prophecy telling him that his beloved daughter would die at the age of 18 by a snake. So he decided to put her in this tower built on a rock on the Bosphorus isolated from the land thus no snake could kill her. But she couldn't escape from her destiny after all, a snake hidden in a fruit basket brought from the city bit the princess and killed her.
Another legend mentions a sad love story: Hero was one of the priestess of Aphrodite living in the tower. One day she left the tower to attend a ceremony in the temple where she met Leandros and they fall in love with each other. Leandros swam to the tower every night to visit his love, meanwhile she was holding a torch to guide him in the dark waters towards her in the tower. But on a stormy night Leandros couldn't see the light because it was put out by the wind, and he swam all night loosing his way until he was drowned. Hero, seeing that her lover died, also jumped into the water and suicided."
extracted from GreatIstanbul.com


Day 04: Taksim/Galata/Emirgan/Bebek

1- Make it to Taksim. Walk the famous  Istiklal Caddesi up and down, and pay attention at its charming red trams. Pay attention at the old building’s Architecture. YOU. WILL. GET. CRAZY. WITH. THE. ARCHITECTURE. FULL. STOP.
This is Taksim área (remember;  where you first arrived from the airport). If you walk the avenue to its end you make it to Ataturk's  Statue. If you walk further you will get to Gezi Park (where the 2013 manifestations took place)
2- Galata: When you walk the opposite direction, you will make it to GALATA (turn left at the final stop of the red tram and go down the main street). 
3- Galata Tower - Keep walking down the main street, until  you reach the Galata Tower – go up the Tower for a 360o view of the city (especially if it is a sunny day). It is perfect if you can get there in time for the sunset. (open 9:00 – 20:00) Price: 18,50 TL
Don’t miss this store: Aponia. Buy yourself a t-shirt (you deserve it!!) It is super cool and 100% made in Turkey.
4- Emirgan Park – it is a beautiful park by the Bosphorus. If you are traveling in April, don't miss the tulips festival. They only bloom at this time of year
When you leave the park; 
5- go for a walk along the Bosphorus. If you keep walking for about  1 hour/1 hour 30 minutes you will get to Rumeli Castle ruins. 
6- Rumeli Hisarı or Rumeli Castle/Fortress  of Europe.   (***if you go up the neighborhood you will get to the Bosphorus University – or Boğaziçi Üniversitesi – that’s the neighborhood I stayed while I lived in Istanbul),
7- Asyan Cemetery. Keep walking more, till you get to Asyan Cemetery. This is where the intellectuals are buried – from teachers to famous poets and writers. It is a very organized cemetery and you should enter it and walk around the tombs, checking the dates and graveyard decorations. You have astonishing views of the Bosphorus from this cemetery. Back on the street, don't miss the poet's Orhan Veli Kanık  statue, which was sculpted by my friend's father (it is just after Asyan bus stop = all the bus stops in Istanbul have names).  If you walk that area, please take a selfie by the statue and share in the comments. 
This area is called Bebek (that means “baby”) and it is one of the most sophisticated areas of Istanbul. You will find nice fish restaurants/cafes here.

Day 05: Ataturk's Palace and Ortaköy

1- Dolmabahçe Palace (Ataturk’s Palace) Open from 9:00 – 16:30 Price: 30 TL
Reserve a whole morning for it, as the palace is big and you will spend a good few hours there. Unfortunately I myself haven’t visited it yet (just visited Topkapi a couple of times and an Asian Palace on the opposite side of the Bosphorus). Magnificent. Read as much as you can about Ataturk – you will see his photo everywhere you go in Turkey. Show respect. People idolize him. Also the Turkish flag – you will see it proudly displayed everywhere, including on top of the mountains, parks, public places. They are devoted to their red (symbolizing the blood of those who fought for the country) flag. In the afternoon, make it to Ortaköy.
2- Ortaköy is the coolest neighborhood you can imagine. There is this beautiful mosque which is painted in delicate tones of pastel pink, by the Bosphorus waters. They have a little fair going on where you can find antiques, jewelry, clothes, decoration  stuff. You will love the atmosphere, I guarantee you. Take the time to eat the local food, called kumpir. The kumpir is a delicious huge stuffed potato – you can choose whatever you want stuffed in potato, as it is made in front of you. Once you eat, take a boat for the whole tour of the Bosphorus (it is ok to be a tourist right now  because they have an audio pointing out what’s to see –  including Galatasaray’s Club, And you will see the most important and beautiful Istanbul monuments from the water. There is a tour that takes about 1 hour and there is one that is more complete, and takes you to the Asian side – depending on the time and weather, choose which one is more appropriate. But TAKE THE BOSPHORUS TOUR.
3- Have you taken the Turkish bath yet? If not, maybe that’s a good opportunity now. http://www.cemberlitashamami.com/index.php?dil=en



You’ve made it! And hopefully you’re so much in love with this city as I am (well, I have been in a serious relationship with Istanbul for 15 years now). If you have more than 5 days to spend, then you can stretch this itinerary accordingly. For my going back to Istanbul thoughts and comments in 2013, read: